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The following is a scanned copy of the original document written by Ronald S. Chong. His web site is no longer available and I felt that his write-up was very helpful when I replaced my clutch on my '96 G20.
PLEASE NOTE: I tried my hardest to keep the integrity of the information as original as possible due to OCR Text scanning is not always 100% accurate. The document as been slightly altered as I have tried to remove any and all email addresses from the document as well as other non-pertinent information.
Also, there are NO LINKS, NO EMAIL ADDRESSES, AND NO PICTURES that work on this document.
It is entirely in a text format.
DO NOT EMAIL ME IN REGARDS TO THE CONTENT OF THIS DOCUMENT. I take no responsibility for the accuracy or content of this document, nor will I take any responsibility for any damage or mishaps done to an individuals vehicle, body, tools, or any other materials by using this document. This document is only here to provide a source of information to the SR20DE powered community.
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HOW TO DO A CLUTCH JOB ON AN SE-R/NX2000
Ronald S. Chong
Last revision: June 22, 1998
dad and I recently (12.29.96) did a clutch job on my '91 SE-R. I had 126k and
though the clutch wasn't slipping as yet, I would tell/feel that it was about
time for a change. I probably could have easily done another 10k miles (and
after seeing the disk, i probably could have), but I just wanted to play it safe
and change it while I had my dad's help and his garage. And plus, it was another
great bonding experience for father and son. But I digress.
chose to install a JWT pressure plate with stock disk. I've become an
autox freak, so it seems appropriate to have a stronger clutch. I also changed
my clutch cable at the same time.
For my install, I used both the Nissan service manual and the Haynes service manual. They had slightly different procedures, but essentially accurate. If someone doesn't have the official service manual, but a Haynes manual and this webpage, they should have no trouble at all. I found the Haynes to be much clearer, thought it was convenient to have the Nissan manual to quickly check torque specs, breakout illustrations, etc.
motivation for making this page was to assist my SE-R colleagues on the net
who have yet to change their clutches. As more and more of us have to do this
job, it would be handy to have a page that captures the collective experiences
of those who have done the job.
I have the hope that it may inspire those who feel they don't know a 12mm socket
from a hip socket. This isn't the kind of job to take on as your first DIY
(do-it-yourself) project, but with a little experience, a good (and maybe
experienced) assistant, a Haynes or Nissan manual (don't try to do this job with
just these pages), some time and patience, and the right selection of tools,
this is a very doable job. And you could save yourself $500+ in Nissan labor. :)
you to the following who have contributed to this page:
Wayne Cox, Brian
Stewart, Fred Miceli, Matt De Haven
claim not even the slightest responsibility for any ill effects you may
experience because you took advice found within these pages; even if it's
because of some editorial mistake on my part. I did my best to recall what steps
were needed. As I warned above, don't try to do the job with just these pages.
Needless to say, I don't get paid for this. If there is a glaring error, please notify
are a list of tools you'll wanna have handy:
JWT pressure plate
$6.06 for two
Axle seal (drivers side)
Axle seal (passenger side)
Circular clip, aka Ring Snap
(for the transaxle end of the driver-side)
O-ring (speedo pinion gear
assembly; 91/92 only)
Replacement cotter pins (for
driveaxles and control arm or tie-rod)
Redline MT-90 (SE-R tranny takes
1: The simple stuff
Put the car up on/oMrjack stands. I bought the 3-ton Pro-Lift stands you
can find at many department or auto parts stores. Put the car up as high as your
floor jack would go so you're assured the transaxle will clear the driver's side
wheel well. When using a floor jack, there are two acceptable jack points. In
the front, use the center member (be careful not to accidently use the downpipe
from the header; it's been done before, but not by me). The rear jack point is
that "hangy-down-thing" in the back center of the car near the rear
swaybar. On the 200SX SE-R, there is no "hangy-down-thing". I believe
the factory says to use the multi-link axle/beam.
2. Drain your tranny fluid.
Remove all the black plastic undercovers under the front of the engine and the
front of the wheel well.
Break the driveaxle nuts. These are 150-200 ft-lb nuts! First, remove the
cotter pin. This may be easier with the wheel off. Have a friend jump on the
brakes. Use the 32mm (36mm if you have a G20) socket and a good breaker or ratchet with pipe to remove the nuts. OSHA
says "Use your legs not your back."
Crack the sp lined connection between the axle and the hub by striking the end
of the driveaxle with a hammer. Pad the axle with a piece of wood so that you
won't muck up the threads. The axle will start to retreat back into the hub.
Just hit it enough for it to move back a bit. Don't wanna pull it out just yet.
We removed the hood since we were gonna support the engine from above.
But after doing this job two other times on friend's cars, I now know this was
unnecessary. It is sufficient to support the engine from below on the aluminum
oil pan. There is a small space between the cross member and the header/downpipe;
about 2" wide and about 7" long. (This picture from the factory
service manual doesn't show the header, but you get the idea of where the
support should be placed and what kind of wood pieces to use to sufficiently
distribute the weight on the aluminum oil pan. (In case you didn't know, there
are two oil pans which are stacked on one another. The steel oil pan is where
you drain the oil. It is bolted to the aluminum oil pan which is in turn bolted
to the block.) You can use your standard scissor car jack here. Raise the jack
by placing it on a brick or two stacked 2x4s.
Remove the battery and all the intake stuff from the box down to the throttle
body. Just disconnect the whole mess from down at the thottle body. There are a
couple hoses to disconnect from the main big rubber air intake hose and box. No
need to label anything, unless you want to.
Disconnect the clutch cable. The end of the clutch cable is threaded. Just
loosen it until you can take the end off the withdrawal lever (as the manual
calls it). Also, pull the cable out of the bracket that holds it to the tranny.
Remove this bracket from the tranny.
you're gonna replace the cable, you might as well pull it out all the way now.
The manuals say to remove the two bolts against the firewall. You
don't have to do that. Just disconnect the cable end from the pedal and the
cable can be easily drawn out. [Tip courtesy o/Wayne Cox (wcoxCca.erinet.
corn)] To disconnect the cable from the pedal, you'll have to feel
around on top of the pedal frame since this end of the cable can't be seen, but
the end is like a clevis.
If you have a '91/'92, you have a mechanical speedo system; i.e. the speedometer
is cable-driven off the
drive gear in the trans. Remove the speedo pinion from. the tranny.
There's a single bolt that's way down
there. I usually tape together about 18 inches worth of ratchet extensions and a
socket to get the bolt out. (Your might be able to get at this nut from
underneath the car, but I don't recall.) Once the bolt is out, you can just pull
the pinion out of the tranny. I then put a sandwich bag around the pinion to
keep grit away. It's a plastic gear so it's more likely to be affected by grit.
manuals show the procedure described above. However, this can be done more
easily. The cable comes down to a knurled nut about an inch diameter onto the
drive gear assembly. You can remove it by hand, especially if you reach through
the fenderwell to get at it. The pinion drive stays in, keeping it clean and
avoiding messing with that retaining bolt. A word of caution: be sure to pull
the cable off from the tranny completely, making sure the inside part stays
inside. [Tip courtesy of
BTW, if you have a '93+, you have an electric speedo system; the speedometer is driven by an electrical signal from the speed sending unit which is driven off the final gear. [Exception: (I've heard from Andy Radin that his '93 G20 used a mechanical speedo system.] In this case, the sending unit says attached to the trans, but there is an electrical connector way down there that needs to be disconnected. It's a challenge, but keep at it.
Disconnect the two tranny switches from the harness. The switch connector
nearer the firewall is kinda tricky to figure out. It's best to undo the bolt
holding that thin bracket to the tranny. To separate the connector, roll the
connector over, slip a nail or small screwdriver in the crack and press. When
putting that bolt back in, be sure to torque it to spec since it is one of the
bolts that keep the tranny cover on. The other switch connector is a squeeze and
pull just like the one on the power transistor, TPS, etc. Also, remove that
ground wire that's near the switch connectors.
Phase 2: Removing the driveaxles
remove driveaxles, you need to free the wheel-end from the hub and disengage the
transaxle-end from the tranny.
free the wheel-end from the hub, you basically need to disconnect enough of the
"things" connected to the knuckle so that the wheel-end can be wiggled
out. There are three points of connection to the knuckle: the control arm
connects to the bottom of the knuckle, via the ball-joint; the tie-rods connects
to the back side (firewall side) the knuckle the another ball-joint; the strut
connects to the top of the knuckle. There are two approachs to accomplish this
by disconnecting the knuckle at:
the strut and the tie-rod. This is the procedure that the Nissan manual shows.
the control arm. This is the procedure the Haynes manual shows.
used the second approach. The only reason was that I didn't want to be bothered
getting a front-end alignment. An alignment is typically required/recommended
when struts are disconnected and reconnected to the knuckle.
However, the risk with doing the second approach is that you may
cut the dust boot on the ball-joint at the end of the lower control arm.
According to the manual, if the boot is torn, you'll need to buy a new control
arm since the ball-joint isn't sold separately and cannot be replaced. (An experience
contrary to this is reported in the FAQ). An alignment is around $80 (??); one
new control arm w/ball joint is around $130 (??). Pick your poison.
the control arm from the knuckle isn't trivial because the ball-joint uses a taper
lock bolt to secure it to the control arm. The top of the ball-joint shaft
is threaded while the body is tapered wide at the bottom than at the top.
When the shaft is inserted into the knuckle and bolted, the taper in the shaft
creates an extrodinarily strong joint. As a result, even after the ball-joint
nut is removed, it takes a surprising amount of prying effort to break the lock.
But you can't just jam a bar in there and twist and yank because the ball-joint
itself is protected by a rubber dust boot.
G20 axles can be removed without seperating any balljoints. Just remove the
upper link bolt, steer toward the side of the car you're on, pull down, and the
axles will pull out of the hub with som tugging. This might, however, be hard on
old rotten CV boots. [Tip courtesy
of Andy Radin]
1. Disconnect the swaybar endlinks from the control arm. This is optional; it just
makes it a little easier to manipulate the control arms later.
Remove the cotter pin from the ball-joint. Then undo the ball-joint bolt as much
as possible. It won't be able to come out all the way.
2. I carefully used a crowbar to separate the ball-joint from the knuckle. (Haynes
suggest using a picklefork. I got one, but found that the gap in the fork wasn't big
enough to accomodate the ball-joint so I abandoned this idea.)
found it useful to first turn the steering wheel so that it opened up access to
this area. Put the bar in there, be careful not to abuse or squash the dust boot
of the ball-joint, then just put all your weight into it. I'm 210 and it took
several bounces on the end ofa2+ft bar before BANG and the taper lock surrendering.
easier approach is to use a prybar; it looks like a long screwdriver with a
bent, flat blade. I put the tip in the space between the knuckle and the control
arm near the ball joint. Then with a hammer, I whack the end of the prybar. This
drives the wedge-shaped tip of the prybar into the space. A few strikes and it
pops, everytime. [Tip courtesy
of Bob Liu]
Remove the ball-joint nut, pull the control arm downward to free the
ball-joint from the knuckle. Inspect the ball-joint again to make sure it
isn't hurt. While the ball-joint is out, make sure that it doesn't harm the
outer CV boots of the driveaxles.
Remove the wheel-end from the hub.
To remove the passenger side axle from the tranny, unbolt the support bearing
bracket from the block. The Nissan service manual shows that you should pry at
the gap in the support bearing; weird. Do
not do this. Just unbolt the support bearing and the axle will effortlessly
pull out of the tranny.
To remove the driver's side axle, just do what the manual shows: use a prybar or
crowbar to pry the axle out of the tranny. This will cause the axle to slide out
about an inch or so. Then it will seem like it's stuck. What's holding it in is
the circular clip at the end of the shaft. What I did was to kneel at
the wheel well, grasp the slide joint housing (the big green scalloped cup),
push the axle in a bit, then sharply yank it back. It will eventaully come out.
Inspect the circular clip at the end of the axle.
We've saved the removal of the starter until now because with the
passenger side driveaxle removed, you'll have more room to dig around to
disconnect the starter harnesses, etc.
the power connection to the starter's solenoid. Then disconnect the ground
harness connector. If you have a '91/'92, this is trivial. But if you have a
'93+, you'll find it is much more difficult to disconnect the ground because the
connector slides onto a metal tongue (for strain relief) and it simply cannot be
removed. I think it's best/easiest to break the connect off the metal tongue.
reinstalling, you should use a strap this connector to anything available near
there. Or, if you're braver than I, you could just let the starter hang without
disconnecting anything. I wouldn't do it though.
under the car, have your assistant remove the two bolts (they are on the
tranny side) that hold the starter. Be ready to catch it when the bolts are
the car in gear. This could come in handy when you're doing Phase 5:
Installing the transaxle.
Disconnect the control rods from the transaxle. Both manuals say to unbolt the
support rod, but this isn't necessary since it isn't attatched to the tranny at
all; it's attatched to the rear motor mount.
Place the floor jack underneath tranny. I positioned the jack so that
it's cup (or saddle; whatever you wanna call it) underneath/near the drain plug.
Raise the jack so that i contacts the tranny. It's hard to reason where the cg
(center of gravity) of the tranny might be. But don't fret too much about it.
The tranny itself isn't terribly heavy. It seemed like 80 Ibs to me. I was
hefting it around pretty easily.
Remove the four bolts that connect the rear motor mount (the one near the
firewall that's anchored to the center member). There
are five bolts need to be removed on the G20. [Tip courtesy of Andy Radin]
You don't need to remove the mount as the service manual says. Just those four
bolts. Notice that they're different lengths and different torques, so be sure
to keep them straight.
of them the lower left one is inside the mount and is a terror to deal
with because it's down in like a hole. If it falls in, you'll need two hands to
get it back. You'll see. It's doable, but, like me, you'll wonder why Nissan
designed it this way. It was probably to get the strength they needed for the
mount in that size package.
Remove the left motor mount. It's attatched to the tranny under where the
battery would be. There are four bolts; three mount-to-tranny and one
Now remove the eight tranny bolts. This is where it's helpful to have two
people. One person can be removing bolts while the other makes sure the tranny
won't drop and fall off the jack.
that five of them (the ones marked #1 in the manuals) are trans-side
bolts and the remaining
are block-side bolts. Two of these three bolts are on the bottom of the trans
and are right beside the cross member. They're are number #3 and #4 in the
Haynes and Nissan service manuals. You'll have to use a 14mm wrench. To remove #3,
you'll need to raise the engine a bit so that it can clear the center member. #4
shouldn't be a problem.
With all the bolts out, the tranny can be removed. But don't just lower
the jack. There are guide pins on the block to align the tranny so you need to
pull the jack and tranny back from the block first. Also, you need to disengage
the input shaft of the tranny from the clutch disk and pressure plate. Pull back
until the you can see the flywheel. Then you can lower it. Now just do what you
need to do to wiggle the tranny out of the wheel well or out the front if the
car is high enough.
You're halfway there. Here are some pies:
Looking down through the engine compartment at the plate
Looking at the plate from the driver's side
Bad shot of the input side of the tranny
Exterior of the tranny
4: Removing and installing clutch components and seals
Remove the pressure plate bolts. You may need to tap/pry the ends of the
plate for it to release from the flywheel. You will find that the engine will
turn as you try to remove these bolts. You can have your assistant prevent the
engine from turning by holding the main pulley (passenger side wheel well) with
a 21mm or 23mm socket.
As you remove the plate and the disk, be sure to note which side of the clutch
disk faced the flywheel and the pressure plate. The stock disks have "T/M
SIDE" written on one side, so you know that's the transaxle side (or
pressure plate side). If you're going to use a non-stock disk, be sure you know
which way the new disk goes back in. Don't breath the dust in there.
fingers on my pressure plate were grooved from the throw-out bearing.
This is expected. The flywheel side of the disk looked fine also. I had
less than 1mm or so to go - wear limit is 0.3mm. However, the pressure plate
side looked pretty bad. As you can see, the inner 3/4" of the disk was
worn down past the radial slots. This wear pattern- struck me as really weird
until Bob Liu told me that his SHO has a similar pattern. I guess it's a sign of
how squarely (or non-squarely in this case) the pressure plate clamps onto the
disk when the clutch is engaged.
Inspect the flywheel. If you've worn your clutch disk down to the rivets,
the flywheel will probably be grooved or scarred. If it is, you'll have to have
it resurfaced. My flywheel was still incredibly smooth since I still had some
clutch disk left so I didn't resurface mine. Good thing cuz there wasn't a shop
nearby and I didn't have the time.
Changing the clutch components is the really
easy part. I won't describe it since you'll be using a manual and it details
it better that I could. But don't screw it up and put the throw-out bearing on
backwards or put the bearing clips on wrong.
Also, don't get too liberal with the grease. And never touch the disk,
flywheel, or pressure plate with greasy fingers.
Haynes manual shows all these steps about removing the withdrawal (clutch
engagement) lever. Just skip that stuff since we're not changing those parts.
To removing the driveaxle oil seals, i just used a prybar, crowbar, or
heavy screwdriver. The passenger's side came out easily, but the driver's side
took a bit of work. Just be careful not to touch the seal lip with your tool.
installation is pretty easy. Put the seal on the hole. You won't be able to put
it in by hand, so you'll have to hammer it in. Since this seal is crucial to
keeping the tranny blood in, I wouldn't hammer on the seal directly. (Plus it
would suck to have to rip the tranny back out just to change the seals which
were hammered on.) First, put a piece of cloth, paper towel, whatever, on top of
the seal, then put a piece of 2x4 across the seal and hammer on it until the
seal seats flush with the tranny case. (The cloth is to keep wood bits or other
crap from falling into the hole.)
To install the new clutch and plate, I'd recommend you getting a good
clutch alignment tool. This is an example of a common, inexpensive kind. But
this one is awesome. It's called a "Metric Clutch Alignment
Tool" and is made by Lisle. The part number is 61750. (If you have the Haynes manual, it
looks like they're using the same tool. See picture 4.14 on page 8-4.) If you
never plan to do a clutch again, you may not want to spend the bux, but I think
it's worth. Hey, if you need one, I'll gladly mail it to you for you to
borrow. You gotta return it though.
all the fuss?" you ask? The tool I used fits snuggly into the end
of the crankshaft with very little
play. You can let go of the tool and the disk will stay put, allowing you to use
two hands to tighten down the pressure plate to the flywheel. The other tool
doesn't engage in the crankshaft so there's a lot of play. Also, you would have
to hold the tool with one hand, tighten the pressure plate bolts with the other,
and maintain a good alignment at the same time. I guess I'm being nitpicky
just about any tool would probably work - but it was hard enough getting the
input shaft in the clutch disk when installing the tranny with the disk
perfectly centered. If the disk wasn't perfectly centered, I can't imagine how
one would get the trans on. After all, that pressure plate is holding the disk
to the flywheel with its full clamping force (992 lbs for stock) so there's no
sliding the disk around to get the trans on.
5: Installing the transaxle
you can get the shaft end in the hold in the fingers, but can't get the splines
to line up, you can try this. If you left the car in gear before you removed the
transaxle, you can have someone slowly turn (clockwise) the engine at the main
pulley (a twenty-something millimeter socket). This will turn the input shaft
and may aid in getting the splines lined up. You won't have to turn the engine
over very much to get things to line up.
splined, you should be able to look in the driveaxle holes and see the gears/splines
turning when the engine is turned over at the main pulley. When everything is
right, the trans will slam onto the block cleanly. What a beautiful hollow
Now it make it sound easy, but this can take as much as 20 minutes to get it right. I've always had to pull the tranny back, scratch my head, then retry. One simple tip, peek the tranny straight and level so that the input shaft will be inline wih the clutch disk hole and crank.
I did the install of the transaxle, I accidently sandwiched a small bracket that
supports some hoses above the tranaxle. This bracket is bolted to the tranny -
actually, one of the bolts that connects the tranny to the block goes through a
hole in this bracket - so the bolt holds this bracket, tranny and block
together; you get the picture.
I'd forgotten about this bracket, and you can't see it when you're under the car
with a tranny on your face, fighting to wiggle it onto the input shaft. When I
did the install, I got the tranny splined onto the shaft, started to put bolts
on, then came to that final hole on top and the bolt would not go it. After
about 30 minutes of retracting and resplining the transaxle, I discovered that
little bracket was sandwiched between there. Once removed, the bolt-up was
trivial. Save yourself the headache and twist-tie the bracket up outa the way
before you introduce the tranny.
8.1, 51 59)
8.1, 51 59)
4.1, 22 30)
4.1, 22 30)
bolt length "l"
does not include the head of the bolt.
the top-left bolt is a long 14mm bolt
the bottom-left is the shortest bolt; also 14mm
the bottom-right bolt is the other long 14mm bolts
the top-right bolt is a long 17mm bolt
Phase 6: Installing miscellaneous components
Bolt the clutch cable bracket to the top of the transaxle and torque to spec.
Install the clutch cable and adjust to spec.
Reconnect the speedo. If you have a '91, replace the rubber o-ring on the speedo
pinion assembly and reinstall it. You may need to turn the pinion itself to get
it to line up with the speedo drive gear in the tranny. If you have a '93+, you
just have an electrical connector to reconnect.
Reconnect the shifter control rods and torque to spec.
Install the starter now while the passenger side axle isn't in there taking up
space. Don't forget to reconnect the power and ground, and if you have a 93+,
strap the ground connector to one of the hoses above to provide some strain
5. Reconnect the two tranny switches and the one ground wire.
Phase 7: Installing the driveaxles
When installing the driveaxles, be careful, more than ever, about
stressing the CV boots. No need to accidently tear a boot when you're this close
to being done.
The passenger side is a breeze. Grease up the splines on the transaxle-end of
the axle. Then just slide the shaft into the transaxle. You may need to turn the
shaft a bit to line up the axle splines to those on the side gear in the tranny.
You can also use the support bearing bracket as something to push against to
drive the shaft so that is seats tightly. Bolt up the support bearing to spec.
Grease up the splines on the wheel-end of the axle and put it into the hub. Put
the axle nut one. You probably won't be able to tighten it down to spec until
the car is on the ground so you won't want to put the cotter pin in now.
Connect the control arm/ball-joint back to the knuckle. It will go in a
lot easier that it was to take out. When putting the nut back on the ball-joint,
you'll need to be cognizant of the orientation of the cotter pin hole; I like to
have the hole aligned in the front-to-rear line of the car. As the nut begins to
clear the hole, use a nail or something to try to turn it how you want it. I
then used my car jack under the control arm (under the ball-joint) to compress
the suspension and pretighten the taper lock so that when I tighten the nut
further, it wouldn't turn and screw up the hole alignement. It worked for me.
For the driver's side, first remove the old circular
clip on the transaxle end of the axle and install the new one. Then grease
up the splines on the transaxle-end of the axle.
Getting the axle in takes some patience. To begin with, just slide the end into
the tranny and get the splines lined up and seated in the side gear. You'll know
when this happens when turning the axle give some resistance and the passenge
side axle turns also. There'll be about a 1.5" gap between the tranny and
the slide joint housing (the big green scalloped cup on the inboard side of the
inner CV boot).
rid of this gap is gonna take a little technique (unlike the passenger side)
because of that circular clip. PLEASE DON'T EVEN THINK TO
INSTALLING THE AXLE WITHOUT THAT CLIP. IT HELPS TO KEEP THE AXLE IN THE TRANNY.
You may end up killing yourself if you install without it.
technique my dad and I used was this: I crawled under the car and pulled the
slide joint housing towards the transaxle; my dad knelt beside the wheel well,
grasped the drive shaft (the shaft between
the CV boots) with one hand and supported the wheel-end CV boot with the other
so that it wouldn't flop around excessively. Then, as I pulled the slide joint
housing towards the transaxle, he pulled on the drive shaft to extend the slide
joint (about an inch or so), then he would quickly push in on the drive shaft,
compressing the slide joint. After a few impacts, the axle seated itself
does this work? My dad's action essentially used the slide joint as a backwards
slide hammer. And my pulling on the slide joint housing just kept pressure on
the circular clip as my dad extended the slide joint. We didn't think this
technique would hurt the slide joint at all considering how much abuse that
joint gets when on the road. I realize that the joint probably doesn't
"bottom out" under normal driving conditions, but surely it's designed
to take a few blows.
Now that the axle is installed, grease put the wheel-end of the axle, insert
into the hub, connect up the control arm/ball-joint as was done on the passenger
9. Finally, reconnect the swaybar endlinks if they were disconnected.
8: FLUID! Don't forget the fluid!
For goodness sakes, remember to refill the transaxle with fluid. It's really
easy to forget as you near the end of this job. And be sure to use some Redline
MT-90. Great stuff. But that's just my opinion.
Phase 9: No-load testing
Start the car when it was still on up stands. Everytime I've done this, there
was a weird very short-lived ratcheting-rattling-like sound. Still dunno what it
is but nothing to worry about.
2. Shift through the low gears; first and second. Don't touch the gas pedal. Idle is sufficient. The wheels should spin as one would expect.
Phase 10: Torque the driveaxle nuts and test drive
Tighten driveaxle nuts to spec: 150+ ft-lbs.
Put on the nut covers.
Put on new cotter pins on the driveaxles.
Put the wheels back on and torque to spec.
Take the car off the stands.
Take it for a test drive. Be gentle. Remember the break-in period. (500 miles??)
7. When you return, check for leaks from the newly installed axle seals.